STARTING AND MAINTAINING WINTER RYEGRASS

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(Suggestions from Gardener’s Supply)

When it comes to planting winter ryegrass, there are a few significant steps we must take to get optimum results.  Gardener’s Supply has noticed that over the years, when it comes to overseeding our
Bermuda lawns with perennial rye grass, we (in the central valley) are prone to several errors.  We must identify those errors and adjust our application and maintenance in order to obtain better
results.

The first error is that we often scatter the seed without properly preparing the soil for good seed-to-soil contact. Cutting the grass low is not enough, for the thatch below the surface must be removed.  When the thatch is not thinned, the result is a poor “stand” of the ryegrass (which means a weaker root structure).  Thus, the proper response to the first error is to de-thatch the lawn (renovating and/or using a “power-rake” are synonymous terms).

Second, we do not adequately water the seed as it is germinating and developing roots.  Watering two to three times a day is not enough.  Therefore, watering the seed at least four times per day (i.e., 7am, 10am,  1pm, 4pm) is a better approach.  The goal is to keep the seed moist: do not drown the seed (as is more possible in silt or clay soils) and do not let the seed dry out (as is more possible in sandy soils).  Keep watch of the soil to see if a constant moisture is maintained.

Third, we often pay little to no attention to soil fertility.  Few of us test the soil pH (and the soil pH is one of the most important aspects of soil fertility: it can assure or restrict the grass from getting the nutrition it needs).  When we do not test the soil we also do not amend the soil to attain optimum fertility.  Further, we often scatter the seed without the proper nutrition to accompany it.  The Oregon Ryegrass Commission as stated that available nutrition is needed for the seed through its germination and growth.  Only a slow-release fertilizer holds that nutrition available through the seeds’ growth cycle.  That is why Gardener’s Supply custom blends and suggests the use of the slow-release fertilizer called Ultra Turf (16-8-8 +4% Fe, blended with potassium sulfate and non-staining, iron sucrate).

These are some errors and suggestions to avoid them while starting our winter rye lawns.  Now to maintain them, we have a few more suggestions.  First, continue to water 4 times a day or more until the first mowing, then back down to twice per day.  By the third mowing , watering once per day is sufficient; through the winter, 1-2 times per week is usually enough.  Second, mow with a rotary mower, NOT a front-throw mower, and leave the grass 1 ½” to 2” high.  The rotary mower does not unduly pull at the ryegrass roots as the front-throw does.  Third, you may use pre-emergents (i.e., 0-0-5 pendimethalin and/or Portrait™) after the fourth mowing (when the grass is established) to help with weed control.

Fourth, if you fertilized with 16-8-8 Ultra Turf, you will need to fertilize again with 21-7-14 Turf Royale in late November / early December.  A lapse in either of these fertilizer applications (and/or heavy and long frosts) can lead to a yellowing-out of the grass (“denitrification”).  Fertilize and pre-emerge again in late January to maintain soil fertility and to begin the battle against crabgrass.  Fertilize in March with 7-20-20 to boost the root structure of the rye and of the Bermuda.  Pre-emerge again in mid-April (with 0-0-5 pendimethalin and Portrait™) to battle preemptively both crabgrass and spurge.  Bermuda normally begins to overtake the rye in April/May.